This is my journey to the heart of Spain in spring.   It was planned on dreary autumn days before I knew my lovely Mum would become ill in the winter and die just before I left.  'She would want you to go'  said every one.  So I put on my stiff upper lip and got on with it.  As they say.  What else could I do?  And yes, she certainly did want me to go.

The first stop is Valencia. We arrive an hour and a half late,  courtesy of Easyjet.  Thank goodness you can get dinner at 23.15 in Spain.  We receive a warm welcome and eat delicious Dorada in Restaurante Islas Canarias, Calle Las Canarias.

Next day it feels essential to head to the beach.  At Playa Las Arenas the sun is shining, the sea is already warm and all the world is out for a paseo.

One of us fancies a cool horchata,   Orxata de xufa (horchata de chufa), is made from tigernuts, water and sugar.   It originates from the Muslim period of Valencian history, and is served ice cold, often with fartons.  These are elongated buns glazed with sugar, and are another Valencian delicacy.

My companion is impressed by the transport system.  

The Valenbisi service consists of nearly 3,000 bicycles distributed around 275 stations and set up all over the city. Users hire a bicycle from any of the stations and return it to any other of the 275 available.  The cycle lanes are extensive and look very safe. We prefer to walk until we are tired and then try out the metro, tram or bus.  All are comfortable to use and well integrated.  
We intend to enjoy our fair share of real beers.  I cannot do them justice but do follow this link for more information.  http://beereurope.blogspot.co.uk/ 

We always check out the markets and Valencia does not disappoint us.

The Mercado Central is a wonderful early 20th century building, in true Valencian style.  

The city has many modernista buildings.

La iglesia y torre of Santa Catalina is one of Valencia's landmarks.  It's a beautiful building in the Carmen district.  It's also one of the oldest in the city, dating from the 14th century, though the tower was added in the 18th century.

Next day we are happy to leave.  Valencia is good in parts, and I wouldn't grumble if forced to live there a few months, but it's a bit too large and amorphous for me.  I am happy to be on the train to Cuenca.  To avoid the AVE and it's prices and enjoy a slow journey,  we take the Madrid train from the small and hassle free Estacion San Isidre. 

Climbing slowly, we notice how green the countryside is.  I think Spain has had nearly as much rain as the UK.

Arriving at Cuenca station, we realise immediately we have arrived somewhere special.

Cuenca, in the autonomous region of Castile-La Mancha is steeped in Roman, Christian and Moorish history.  Owing to it's strategic hill top position surrounded by the gorges of the two rivers it was an important fortress for centuries. It's divided into two separate settlements: the "new" city is divided from the old town by the Huécar river.

The old town is small, quiet and a wonderful place to explore by foot.  Despite it's world heritage status, Cuenca appears to be relatively unscathed by tourism.  I should add that we stayed mid-week and I have had heard that Cuenca is becoming a popular weekend outing for madrileños

Cuenca Cathedral was built between 1182 and 1270.  It was the first gothic style Cathedral in Spain, and has Anglo-Norman influences.  The façade was rebuilt after it crumbled down in 1902, but remains uncompleted.  Like all cathedrals of this age it has seen many changes over the centuries.  The façade was rebuilt early last century and in the early 1990s modern coloured windows were installed.  

The cathedral adjoins the colourful Plaza Mayor.

 

The Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses), is a complex of houses, of uncertain origin. In the past, houses of this kind were frequent along the eastern border of the ancient city, and they could represent a response to overcrowding and a lack of other building options. We overhear a local guide tell a bunch of US tourists that in the 19th century they were the world's biggest sky scrapers.  In fact, it is known that they date back to the 15th century. 

They have been used as individual homes, council houses, and currently host a restaurant and the Museo de Arte Abstracto.  

The iglesia de San Pedro has a beautiful chapel ceiling, I could look at it for hours.

In contrast, I cannot walk over the Puente de San Pablo quick enough.  It's quite scary crossing the gorge this way, but I want to keep my companion happy.  The bridge was originally built in the 16th century to  connect the old town with the San Pablo convent (now the parador). In fact, the original bridge collapsed, and the current one was built in 1902, of wood and iron.

The origins of the Mangana Tower are unclear, but there is evidence for it's existence in the 16th century.  It was rebuilt in the 20th century following damage in a thunder storm.  It has a clock on one of its walls and a recording of bell chimes can be heard in the old town every quarter of an hour.

I loved Cuenca and feel sad to leave.  
Next, we are on the slow train to Madrid and admire the countryside of the mesita.  We change at Aranjuez by simply crossing the platform.  

Two nights in Madrid.  It's a capital city of manageable size, and I love it.  I don't want to write about it this time.  I'm not sure why, perhaps I need a break from being on holiday.  Have a look at 

http://beereurope.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/beer-in-madrid.html

So, with two new companions, I take the train to Salamanca from Estación Charmartin, not a bad place for breakfast.  It's relaxing, despite a gang of noisy but good natured youths on a stag party (despedida de soltero) for company.   Gracias chicos! 

 The view of the Walls of Ávila from the train takes me back to 1986, when I visited this beautiful town in the snowi.  These medieval walls are extensive,  covering approximately 2.5 kilometres, and comprising the largest fully illuminated monument in the world. 

Soon we are walking through the  old town of Salamanca in the heat.  We settle into our apartments then go for a wander.  The old town was declared a  UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988.  Salamanca is the oldest and most important university in Spain and indeed, parts of it remind me of Oxford.  Cloisters, chaotic students and culture everywhere.  My companion is moved by convents several times per day.  We wonder at man's ability to produce such beauty in the midst of all the cruelty and inequality of those times. 

The university facade is shown below.  My photo is not clear enough to depict the frog sitting on top of a skull.  This is a shame, if you can spot it, the story goes that it will bring you good luck in romance or exams. 

The Escuelas Menores are beautiful 15th century university buildings which we happen upon on our first evening.

We are staying two minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor, said to be one of the most beautiful in Spain.  Certainly one of the largest and least spoiled that I have seen. 

Tipped off by a local we dine at Cafe Mandala on our first evening. 

This is no nonsense popular cafe with a 'menu del día' available at dinner time as well as lunchtime, which is unusual.  There is a vegetarian and fishy emphasis.  We tried breakfast next day too. 

Fortified by breakfast at Cafe Mandala, we are ready for sun, heat and cycling the city perimeter, on the excellent cycle tracks.

Please note the cathedral in the background (more later), and yes, I do have a bike, honestly. 

Back to town across the Puente Romano, which crosses the River Tormes.  Many of it's arches really do date from the first century. 

Salamanca's cathedral consists of two adjoining buildings.  The New Cathedral (Catedral Nueva) and the older cathedral, the Catedral Vieja.  The Catedral Nueva was constructed in response to deterioration in the existing cathedral between the 16th and 18th centuries in late gothic and baroque styles.  

Entering via the North gate we notice minature carvings running in long strips. These include gargoyles, rabbits, pigs and an astronaut which was added during essential restoration work in the 20th century.  (Not to mention the gargoyle with the ice cream)

.  

The medieval Catedral Vieja can only be entered via the Catedral Nueva.  It is even more atmospheric, peaceful and moving.  I am so glad they preserved what they could of the building.  

We linger in the Catedral Vieja, admiring the mudejar infuences, the ornate tombs for the rich (the more pillows, the more wealth) and the animal engravings.  

I am not surprised to learn that the rabbit at the bottom signifies intelligence.  Rabbits are very smart. 

El convento y iglesia de San Estoban is another wonderful experience.  This Dominican convent dates back to the 16th century and has gothic and baroque elements. I enjoy climbing the bell tower and wandering the cloister.

  

Note above the storks who inhabit the bell towers of Salamanca.

Later, we enjoy dinner in Restaurante El Bardo, Ca

lle la Compania, 25.  A traditional restaurante with attentive service in the comedor behind the tapas bar. Portions are wholesome and nutrtious.

The Iglesia of San Marcos.

The Casa de las Conchas was  built in the late 15th century.  It's façade is decorated with about 350 shells of scallops, representing the Order on Santiago.  It reminds me of Santiago de Comepostella in Galicia.  It currently houses a public library, which I don't find time to enter.  There are so many reasons for going back to Salamanca.

The 17th century Iglesia de San Martin.

A street view in the old town.

The Pachamama is a popular chiringuito style restaurant on the banks of the Tormes with fine views of the cathedral. The food is wonderful. Traditional Mediterranean fare: big salads, pizzas, tortillas.  The vegetarian amongst us is happy, especially with this view to enjoy.